Delhi Food Guide — Street Food & Best Restaurants
Delhi's food scene spans 400-year-old recipes in Old Delhi's lanes to modern restaurants pushing Indian cuisine forward. Here's where to eat and what to try.
Old Delhi: The Street Food Capital
Old Delhi's labyrinthine lanes around Chandni Chowk contain India's most legendary street food concentration. These aren't trendy pop-ups — many stalls have been family-run for generations.
Paranthe Wali Gali
What: A narrow lane of paratha shops, each stuffing flatbreads with everything from potatoes to rabri (sweet milk).
Where: Off Chandni Chowk, near the Fatehpuri Mosque end
Try: Mixed stuffing parathas, served with curd and pickle
Cost: ₹80-150 per plate
Hours: 8 AM - 10 PM
The lane has been serving parathas since the 1870s. Tourist-heavy but still worth it for the experience.
Karim's
What: Legendary Mughlai restaurant, founded 1913 by descendants of Mughal court chefs
Where: Gali Kababian, near Jama Masjid Gate 1
Try: Mutton burra kebab, chicken jahangiri, seekh kebabs, mutton korma
Cost: ₹300-600 for a meal
Hours: 9 AM - 12:30 AM
The original location has the atmosphere. Multiple branches exist but skip them.
Natraj Dahi Bhalle Wala
What: Chaat specialist, same recipe since 1940s
Where: Chandni Chowk main road, near Paranthe Wali Gali
Try: Dahi bhalle (lentil dumplings in yogurt), aloo tikki chaat
Cost: ₹60-100
Hours: 10 AM - 9 PM
The tangy, sweet, spicy layering defines Delhi chaat.
Old Famous Jalebi Wala
What: Fried sweet spirals, served hot from the wok
Where: Corner of Dariba Kalan and Chandni Chowk
Try: Jalebis with rabri (thickened milk)
Cost: ₹50-80 per serving
Hours: 8 AM - 9 PM
Watch them fry fresh batches. Best eaten immediately while crispy.
More Old Delhi Essentials
| Spot | Famous For | Location |
|---|---|---|
| Al Jawahar | Biryani, kebabs | Near Jama Masjid Gate 1 |
| Aslam Chicken Corner | Butter chicken tikka | Matia Mahal |
| Giani's | Rabri faluda | Chandni Chowk |
| Lotan Chole Kulche | Chole kulche | Daryaganj |
| Jung Bahadur Kachori Wala | Spicy kachori | Chandni Chowk |
Butter Chicken: Born in Delhi
Butter chicken was invented at Moti Mahal in Delhi in 1947. The story: tandoori chicken leftovers were simmered in tomato, butter, and cream to avoid waste. The result became India's most famous dish globally.
Where to try the original: Moti Mahal Delux, Daryaganj (the original location)
Modern interpretations:
- Indian Accent — deconstructed, upscale
- Gulati — rich and creamy, Pandara Road
- Punjabi by Nature — consistently good chain
Best Restaurants by Category
Fine Dining
Indian Accent — Modern Indian using local ingredients creatively. ₹4,000-6,000 per person. Lodhi Colony. Book weeks ahead.
Bukhara at ITC Maurya — Famous for dal bukhara and sikandari raan. Old-school luxury. ₹5,000+. Diplomatic Enclave.
Dum Pukht at ITC Maurya — Slow-cooked Awadhi cuisine. Biryani and kebabs. ₹4,000+.
Mid-Range Excellence
Gulati — North Indian classics done well. Butter chicken, mutton, kebabs. ₹800-1,200. Pandara Road.
Moti Mahal Delux — Original butter chicken. Classic Punjabi. ₹600-1,000. Daryaganj.
SodaBottleOpenerWala — Parsi food, quirky decor. ₹800-1,200. Khan Market.
Farzi Cafe — Modern Indian, molecular gastronomy touches. ₹1,000-1,500. CP.
Casual & Affordable
Saravana Bhavan — South Indian chain, reliable dosas and thalis. ₹200-400. Multiple locations.
Naivedyam — South Indian temple-style food. ₹300-500. Hauz Khas.
Andhra Bhawan Canteen — Government canteen, unlimited thali for ₹100. Ashoka Road.
Best Cafes
For Coffee
- Blue Tokai — India's best specialty roasters. Multiple locations.
- Third Wave Coffee — Reliable pour-overs. Hauz Khas, GK.
- Perch — Wine bar and coffee. Khan Market.
For Brunch & Ambience
- Elma's Bakery — European baked goods, breakfast. Hauz Khas.
- Cafe Turtle — Quiet, bookshop cafe. Khan Market.
- The Big Chill — Continental comfort food. Khan Market, CP.
Vegetarian Delhi
Delhi is vegetarian paradise. Options include:
South Indian: Saravana Bhavan (chain), Naivedyam (Hauz Khas), Sagar Ratna (multiple)
Rajasthani: Rajdhani (thali), Suruchi (thali at Sagar Ratna locations)
Street food: Chole bhature, pav bhaji, dosa, chaat — all vegetarian
Fine dining: Indian Accent has vegetarian tasting menu, Bukhara has dal bukhara
Most non-vegetarian restaurants have extensive vegetarian sections. You'll never struggle.
Food Areas by Neighbourhood
| Area | Best For |
|---|---|
| Old Delhi/Chandni Chowk | Street food, Mughlai, kebabs |
| Pandara Road | North Indian restaurants |
| Khan Market | Cafes, upscale dining |
| Hauz Khas | Cafes, casual bars |
| Connaught Place | Mix of everything |
| Defence Colony | Modern restaurants, chains |
Food Tours
The best way to navigate Old Delhi's maze of food stalls is with a guide who knows what's fresh and safe.
Recommended Tours
Delhi Food Walks — Focused street food tours, Old Delhi specialty. ₹2,000-3,000.
Intrepid Urban Adventures — Well-organized, smaller groups. ₹2,500-4,000.
Airbnb Experiences — Various hosts, read reviews carefully. ₹1,500-3,500.
What to Expect
- 3-4 hours of walking and eating
- 8-12 different tastings
- Local guide with stories and context
- Usually starts morning (best for fresh food)
- Water provided, but bring more
DIY Alternative
Walk from Chandni Chowk metro to Jama Masjid, stopping at:
- Paranthe Wali Gali (parathas)
- Natraj Dahi Bhalle (chaat)
- Old Famous Jalebi Wala (sweets)
- Karim's (kebabs/biryani)
Tips for Eating in Delhi
Food safety:
- High-turnover stalls are safer (fresher food)
- Eat fully cooked, served-hot items
- Avoid pre-cut fruit from street vendors
- See our safety guide for details
Timing:
- Street food breakfast: 8-11 AM
- Lunch: 12:30-3 PM
- Dinner: 8-10:30 PM (restaurants), street food closes by 10 PM
Budget:
- Street food meal: ₹100-300
- Casual restaurant: ₹300-600
- Nice dinner: ₹800-1,500
- Fine dining: ₹3,000-6,000
Reservations: Essential for Indian Accent, Bukhara, and weekend dinners at popular spots. Book through Zomato app.
For neighbourhood dining options, see our neighbourhoods guide.