"A 1920s merchant's pleasure palace on the edge of the Thar"
Built in the 1920s as the private guesthouse of one of Shekhawati's richest merchants, and once a rang mahal where the Maharaja of Bikaner was entertained, Malji ka Kamra is the reason to get off the Golden Triangle and into Churu. Rooms keep their original paintings and Shekhawati murals, beds are handmade king-size, and the Spice Court restaurant does Indian and Rajasthani cooking downstairs. The hotel's own walks and safaris open up painted havelis, artisan workshops, dune sundowners and blackbuck country, all around three hours from Jaipur.
Some facilities and experiences may be chargeable.
The way in: a double room in the old house, frescoed borders and family antiques included. Sleeps up to three.
A four poster under high painted ceilings, hand painted tile dados and stained glass fanlights. Sleeps up to three.
The biggest of the house, sleeping up to five, with a sitting corner and the full run of modern comforts.
New A classified heritage hotel at Rohet near Jodhpur, held by the same family since 1622 and receiving guests since 1990. Frescoed rooms, a courtyard pool, a family kitchen with its own cookbook, and a Marwari stable the family calls among the country's finest.
By enquiry A Portuguese house of around 1919 at Siridao bridge in Goa Velha, lovingly restored from 2014 by local artisans and reborn as a six-room boutique hotel. Expect a courtyard pool between red arcaded wings, a waterfront cafe with a pastry chef they say is Le Cordon Bleu certified, five resident dogs and the sort of quiet that North Goa's beach belt forgot.
By enquiry High above the ghats of the sacred Narmada, in the weaving town of Maheshwar, stands the 18th-century fort-palace of Ahilyabai Holkar — still in the family, and now opening its courtyards to a handful of guests. Nineteen rooms across six old buildings, three walled courtyards, a garden pool, and a daily table grown in the fort's own beds. One of central India's great stays.
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