Reni Pani Jungle Lodge

Reni Pani takes its name from a berry tree — the reni — that grows thickly in this stretch of forest and in the tribal village next door. The lodge says those same berries are what keep bringing sloth bears through the neighbourhood. It is run by Bhopal's Jehan Numa family of hoteliers, and their habits have travelled: a butler arrives at your cottage at dinner time to walk you through the dark.

Cottage, tent, waterhole

Twelve cottages sit in the trees in three designs — nallah, forest and hill units — built from indigenous materials, with viewing decks and big bay windows made for lounging. The tents are arranged around a perennial waterhole, so the wildlife-watching starts before breakfast does. The reserve itself is eleven kilometres away.

Satpura is a park for walkers, and this is a lodge run by people who walk.

The lodge makes a point of exploring without engines: walking safaris, canoeing, cycling and overnight camping alongside the usual jeep and motorboat outings, all led by its resident naturalists. Evenings converge on the Gol Ghar, a round dining room, bar and lounge with a fireplace at its centre. A seasonal pool, a library and massage therapies fill the hours between drives.