Carmelia Haven sits inside a working tea and cardamom plantation near Vandanmedu village, half an hour's drive from Thekkady, and the estate is the whole point: plantation tours and mountain jeep safaris run on the resort's own land, with cardamom bushes, pepper vines and fruit trees pressing in on all sides.
A working plantation, with beds
There are three ways to stay. The tree houses — wood on solid stilts, rising into the canopy — are the adventurous option, with wrap-around balconies looking down over the plantation. Planters Villas make the opposite case: spacious cottages among orange trees, cardamom and coffee bushes, their balconies facing the cardamom valley below. Between the two sits the Plunge Pool Villa, with private garden, airy veranda and its own unheated pool.
The scent of cardamom does the room service here.
Evenings run to bonfires with a local twist and themed dinners; days to bird watching, trekking, boating and fishing, or an Ayurvedic massage. There is a library with a coffee shop for the idle hours, and a spice shop for taking the plantation home in a bag.