"A 300-year-old, six-room haveli on Amber's main square, reopened in 2021 with all-day views of Amber Fort"
The setting
Most Jaipur hotels promise you Amber Fort as a day trip. Surya Haveli gives it to you at breakfast, at tea and lit up at night — the haveli overlooks Amer's main square directly below the fort's honey-coloured 16th-century walls, and the hotel says it is the only place to stay with all-day views of the fort. Around the doorstep: fruit and vegetable stalls, textile houses, ancient temples, and the occasional elephant strolling past. The sights of Jaipur city are a short drive away.
The story
The haveli's 300-year-old records are lost, but the family says historians reckon it was most likely the grand mansion of a minister of Maharaja Man Singh I, the king who built Amber Fort. By the time Thakur Bhim Singh of Rampura and his daughter Madhu Singh inherited it, the building was dilapidated. Madhu Singh brought in specialist restoration artisans from across the country — no small task, given the original structure was built of lime with no bricks or cement, roofed with gigantic stone slabs from the Aravalli foothills. Knocking down partitions revealed the original pillars of the central courtyard. After three years of work, Surya Haveli opened in February 2021, named after Amber's Sun Temple.
Rooms
Six bedrooms, each named after a chamber in Amber Fort and papered in bespoke wallpaper by designer Adil Ahmad — Mughal motifs, maharajas' hunting scenes, pomegranates. Four doubles sit on the second floor (Sukh Mahal, Chand Bagh, Kesar Bagh, Anar Bagh); the first floor has the twin Shikar Bagh and the snug queen-bedded Chota Bagh. All have white marble bathrooms with power showers, and a lift reaches the first and second floors — itself a saga of the restoration. You can also take the whole haveli.
The table
Three venues plus a bar: the Amer Sky rooftop restaurant, where the sun sets behind the fort and the evening light-and-sound show flickers in the distance; the Amber Dining Room, its wallpaper marching with elephants; and Surya Chowk, the fountain courtyard, for meals al fresco. Dar-Bar on the first floor pours cocktails beside a small library. Candle-lit private dinners can be conjured in the haveli's secret corners.